Why Autumn Is the Best Time to Get Planting

There is something quietly hopeful about planting bulbs in autumn. The soil is still warm, the evenings are drawing in, and you are burying what look like dry brown onions in the certain knowledge that they will turn into a blaze of colour just when the garden needs it most. Spring bulbs are the cheapest way to buy a long, cheerful display, and the window between late September and the end of November is when most of them want to go in.

The reason timing matters is simple. Bulbs need a spell of cold to break their dormancy and trigger root growth before the tops appear. Plant them too early and they can rot in warm, wet soil; leave it too late and they will not have time to root properly before the frosts. As a rule of thumb, get daffodils and crocuses in by the end of October, and tulips into the ground by mid-November. If you miss the window, tulips are the most forgiving and will often still perform if planted in early December.

Choosing Bulbs for an Early Show

If you want colour as early as possible, choose a mix rather than a single variety. That way the display rolls on for weeks instead of peaking and collapsing in a fortnight.

• Crocuses are the true early birds, often flowering in February and sometimes in January. Plant them in generous drifts through the lawn or at the front of a border, where the small flowers can be seen close up.
• Snowdrops and winter aconites are small but rewarding, and they naturalise happily in grass beneath deciduous trees.
• Daffodils bridge the gap between late winter and mid-spring. Look for dwarf varieties for pots and windy spots, and taller trumpet types for cutting.
• Tulips finish the season off in April and May. They are the showiest of the lot, though most are best treated as annuals and replaced each year.
• Hyacinths add scent and are superb in containers near a door or path, where you will catch the fragrance every time you pass.

Buy bulbs that feel firm and heavy for their size, with no soft patches or mould. Small, shrivelled specimens rarely recover, however kind you are to them.

Depth, Spacing and the Rules That Actually Matter

The old guideline still holds: plant a bulb at roughly three times its own height in soil. That means small crocus corms go about 8cm deep, daffodils around 15cm, and large tulips at 20cm or more. Deeper planting keeps bulbs cooler, anchors tall stems and helps them come back year after year. If you garden on heavy clay, plant slightly shallower and work in plenty of grit to improve drainage, because waterlogged bulbs simply rot.

Spacing is where many gardeners go wrong. Planted singly, bulbs look mean and sparse. Planted in loose groups of five to nine, they look as though they have always been there. Space large daffodils about 15cm apart and crocuses about 8cm apart, then leave them alone. Resist the temptation to tidy them into neat rows unless you are planting in a cutting bed.

Layering Bulbs in Pots and Borders

If space is tight, plant in layers. Pop a few tall tulips at the bottom of a pot, add a 5cm layer of compost, then a row of daffodils, more compost, and finally crocuses near the surface. All three will come through in sequence from the same container, giving you months of interest from one pot. Use a peat-free multipurpose compost mixed with grit, and make sure there are drainage holes and crocks in the base.

In borders, the same principle works. Interplant bulbs between herbaceous perennials, which will be dormant when the bulbs are in flower and will then grow up to hide the fading foliage. This is the neatest trick in the garden for disguising yellowing leaves.

Keeping Squirrels, Mice and Slugs at Bay

Pests are the main reason spring displays disappoint. Squirrels and mice dig up freshly planted bulbs, particularly tulips and crocuses, which they seem to find delicious. A few practical defences work well together:

• Lay chicken wire flat over the planted area, just below the surface, and let shoots grow through the mesh.
• Add grit or gravel to the top of pots and beds. It deters digging and improves drainage at the same time.
• Use a few drops of chilli oil or garlic on the surface, reapplied after rain, as a short-term deterrent.
• Plant daffodils freely. Their bulbs are toxic and pests tend to leave them alone, which is why they are so reliable.
• Watch for slugs as shoots emerge. A nighttime patrol with a torch catches most of them, and barriers of wool pellets or crushed shells help around pots.

Aftercare for Next Year's Display

Once the flowers fade, deadhead them so the plant does not waste energy on seed, but leave the leaves for at least six weeks. The foliage is feeding the bulb for next spring's flowers. Only cut it back once it has turned yellow and limp, and never tie it into knots. Give bulbs a light feed with a high-potash fertiliser as the flowers go over, and let the ground dry out in summer, which is what most bulbs prefer. Treat them well and a good clump of daffodils or crocuses will multiply year after year, giving you more colour for less money and no effort at all beyond a morning's planting in autumn.